Hello New York Fashion Week

At a time when the fashion calendar is in complete chaos, it is hard for even those in the industry to keep track of who is showing what collection and when. Acne is just one of many brands who have chosen to rebel against the regular regime, combining their pre-season and Autumn/ Winter 2018 collections in one show that occurred in the middle of the Paris Couture shows and only a few days after their menswear display. But for those left adhering to the rules, New York Fashion Week kicked off officially on the 8th and already we can see trends forming for Autumn/Winter 2018.

 

Tom Ford catwalk featuring a metallic look of leggings and tailored blazer for a night outfit. Big hoop earrings with extra sparkle add to the 80s feel.

Tom Ford – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

Tom Ford has already caused quite a stir for opening the shows in the big apple with a work-hard-play-hard attitude. The showcase took place in Park Avenue Armory which was decorated with large vases of cherry blossom. That was not the only big, bold and beautiful element to the event: 1980s excess was the theme to the collection. Animal prints, crystals and is that faux fur or real fur? After Tom Ford speaks of veganism and his preference for fur by-products, but all the biodegradable issues with faux fur and disposable fashion consumerism, we are left questioning the fabrication used. Either-or or trail of thought was soon distracted by a “Beverly Hills” jumper completely covered in sparkle: good-bye basic grey jumper and hello striking shine. The glistening look continues with … yes, they are back … leggings. Metallic or wet look leggings are set to be a night-time staple according to Tom Ford, but they must be dressed up with tailoring. The unlikely pair oddly works well, really well especially when worn with the collection’s shoe: slingback kitten heels. If you just cannot face another comeback of the body-con tights-come trousers the brand offers a fishnet sock alternative. But one thing is a must – massive earrings.

Tom Ford autumn/ winter 2018 catwalk. This look features a sparkly beverly hills jumper and leopard print metallic leggings.

Tom Ford – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

 

Jeremy Scott Autumn Winter 2018 RTW catwalk. Thigh high fur moon boots accessorise the velvet tracksuit top and skirt along with blue tights and pink wig.

Jeremy Scott – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

Metallics continued that day with Jeremy Scott’s show. Thigh-high moon boots with a sheen support a range of satin backpack inspired outfits that Vogue refers to as “bubblegum space age”. The multi-puff-pockets and belt straps hint towards childish escapism fun, whilst pastel wigs and matching tights help the designer achieve his personally named “cyber barbie” girls.

 

Red Valentino Look book for A/W 2018. This look features a translucent long skirt with frills and polka dots. A leather jacket with block lettering with the slogan "forget me not" and long yellow pic boots accompany the the skirt.

Red Valentino – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

The Red Valentino collection release was slightly more subdued with black and navy being the dominant colours. But the contrast in the way of fabrics was incredibly interesting and perfect for the minimalist looking to experiment: delicate, lightweight, and sheer fabrics were matched with heavy biker boots that screamed – I wear what I want. Commercial spots feature on long netted ballerina skirts, which are teamed with heavy-duty jackets featuring the collections block lettering, giving a slight sportswear vibe. Occasional outfits of colour continue the crisp pen pleat theme with horizontal bold stripes and a bright floral style print adding a boho femininity to the look. Like Jeremy Scott bright tights are back in Red Valentino lookbook (, do we see a trend forming), a favourite outfit of mine is the all-hot pink look comprised of an oversized cable knit jumper with the bold block lettering incorporated into the knitting. Styled with textured pink tights and lighter pink strappy heels, how can this mix of bright boldness and classic comfort not please a person?!

Red Valentino A/w 2018 collection look-book. Hot pink cable knit jumper dress over textured tights. Pink heels accessories the outfit.

Red Valentino – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

 

Creatures of comfort a/w 2018 collection with diverse models. This model is wearing a satin skirt and blouse with a jumper wrapped over her shoulder. The chic granny look features socks and sandals.

Creatures of Comfort – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

Similarly, the Creatures of Comfort show juxtaposed styles to create a great mix of sexy with a hint of Granny. Mainly consisting of oversized items, fringing adorned silk and sheer dresses peek through parkas in a subtly suggestive style. The show also stood out for its diverse mix of models: age, size, ethnicity, everyone looked gorgeous in the garments.

 

This look from the Covolos autumn winter 2018 catwalks comprised of double denim. The reverse and bound seams add an extra detail. The shearling of the denim jacket is a separate jacket adding an extra layer of interest.

Covolos – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

The first day of Autumn/ Winter fashion week also saw the Covolos show. Here the 90s trend continued from previous seasons, but met nightwear on the way, and together formed an eclectic yet marvelous mix of wondrously wearable items. Double denim had to make a showcase of course but its shearling lining was elongated, maximised, and in some cases a separate statement from its counterpart to create a softened style.  Satin quilting was made into jackets and even trousers to add highlights of colour. Colour of current street style – orange – aided blue and khaki to add a punch to the predominantly brown and navy colour pallet. Reverse and bound seams also added that extra bit of colour, often bringing outfits together and creating that extra element of detail. Leather and patchwork break up a collection and bring it back to that (dare we say vintage,) 90s style.

This look from the Cavils collection uses the quilting technique for a longline jacket and creates a day meets night wear look with the monotone floral print bound with matching pop colours.

Covolos – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

 

This look from the Adam Selma catwalk is comprised of a flowing, hot pink maxi dress belted at the wait with a red leather belt. Rulo loop button fastenings run up the sleeves and dress length. The model is wearing bold yellow eyeshadow.

Adam Selma – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

Like Tom Ford and Jeremy Scott, Adam Selma’s collection adopts block colour copiously and creatively. Rulo loop button fastenings line flowing dresses and sleeves, creating an almost historic delicacy to the garments. In contrast, realistic graphical prints create a pop art aspect. Animal print, particularly Zebra print is dominant in the collection – it’s literally everywhere. Together with PVC two pieces, one can say Adam Selma has made what was once considered trashy and tacky totally on trend.

This look from the Adam Selma Catwalk is wearing a zebra print top with a printed hand and goo came dress over. The outfit is accessorised with yellow tights and boots.

Adam Selma – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

 

With many more shows to go and already a definite direction of style, we cannot wait to see the proceeding collections of some of fashion’s most cutting-edge designers.

 

Article Written By: Jessica Lewis 

Featured Image: Jeremy Scott – Autumn/ Winter 2018 RTW – Vogue 

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