The fashion crowd have long since vacated New York and London, and although they are still at Milan for the time being, it won’t be long before they head to Paris to conclude Fashion Month in style.
Saint Laurent Under The Eiffel Tower
Anthony Vaccarello seems to have found his feet in his new role as creative head of Saint Laurent. His Spring Summer 2018 collection was a beautiful tribute to the label’s founder, putting a raunchy, twenty-first-century twist on some of Yves Saint Laurent’s most iconic silhouettes and cuts. This risque sheer leopard print and lingerie combination perfectly summed up the ethos of the collection, which was shown under the Eiffel Tower – a fittingly majestic location to celebrate one of Paris’s all-time greats.
Trenchant Tailoring at Céline
The unfussy, minimalist chic style of the archetypal Céline girl is perhaps the epitome of that effortless je ne sais quoi that Parisians are renowned for. In what would transpire to be her penultimate collection for the house, Phoebe Philo gave us a masterclass in understated elegance. We particularly love the reconstructed, doubled-up trench coats that served as the collections most statement-y garments. It was a joyous showing described by Vogue’s Claudia Croft as one of Philo’s ‘best yet’ at the brand – and this was before news of her departure from the house was made public.
Fashion Meets Art at Comme des Garcons
Rei Kawakubo’s Spring/ Summer 2018 offering was a masterpiece in two senses. First for the incredible craftsmanship and creativity that went into each look. Second, because the garments were literally masterpieces – Kawakubo used digital printing techniques to borrow from the works of some of the greatest artists of the past five centuries. The dresses had a sculptural quality which made them seem like works of art in their own right. Given the fact that most of her clothes could never actually be worn, maybe it’s best to think of Kawakubo’s collections as art exhibitions rather than fashion presentations.
Mixing and Matching at Louis Vuitton
There was more interplay of high and low elements at Nicolas Ghesquiere’s collection for Louis Vuitton. It’s this hybridity of high fashion with more casual streetwear elements that’s made Louis Vuitton the global success it is today. We love this combination of nineteenth-century romantic exuberance on the top half and a – very short – miniskirt and trainers pairing on the bottom.
More Trench Coat Mayhem at Maison Margiela
That most versatile of garments, the time-honoured trench coat, is fast becoming John Galliano’s signature piece for Maison Margiela. While Phoebe Philo kept her experimentations with this item of outerwear relatively restrained, Galliano – in true Galliano fashion – went wild. One of the trench renditions that sticks out in our mind is this pared-back deconstruction. The coat’s skeleton is hinted at with a furry black framework, and a straight-forward belt brings everything together nicely at the outfit’s centre point.